The Pilbra

Thursday 21/11

What a long drive to Eighty Mile Beach. Felt longer because we left Broome so late as we had several stops to make. It was still nearly 400km to drive to Eighty Mile Beach caravan park. 

The first thing we noticed was how much cooler it was particularly with the sea breeze blowing through the camper. We had a much better night sleep being cooler. We all used sleeping bags for the first time in WA possibly since Darwin. 

The caravan park at Eighty Mile Beach had lots of rules. No driving around the park after 7pm and before 7am. No dogs. No kids riding bikes. No assistance if you become bogged on the beach, and a raft of other rules about driving on the beach. Over some of the power poles in the park were Australia Post canvas mail bags with a warning 'property of Australia Post, any unauthorised use prohibited'. A case of don't break our rules the way we break others'. 

In the early hours of Friday morning turtles were due to come up the beach to lay eggs. We were going to get up to look but we had some difficulty with the whole waking up and motivation thing. 

After breakfast and packup we went for a drive along the beach, careful to follow all the rules. We were thankful we didn't go wandering the beach in the middle of the night as we didn't find any fresh turtle tracks near where we were staying. 

Checking out the turtle tracks. 

Australia's well protected coast. Thanks Coast Watch we'll sleep better knowing you are there. 

Nicholas stopped for a sea snake that was high up on the beach. Two Parks Rangers stopped with us to have a look also. We were all out, other than Angela who was minding the car this time. The Rangers explained that the snake was extremely venomous and had difficulty moving on land but moved quickly in water. It's tail was made like a rudder to help it move in the water. Very cool to see one on land and so far up the beach. 

Sea snake heading back to the Indian Ocean. 

After a very enjoyable drive along the beach we drove on to Port Hedland. Many of the people we had spoken to on the road had told us Port Hedland is for miners and FIFO workers and all the caravan parks are full of HiVis vest wearers. We had prepared to either stay in Port Hedland or drive further on toward Karijini NP. We drove into Port Hedland in time for lunch and found a fabulous park right on the beach with picnic tables and a decent playground. 

Nice park overlooking the port facilities. 

After refueling ourselves we drove around Port Hedland to look at the loading facilities and around the old town. There is really nothing for the tourist at Port Hedland and being a Friday night we decided to drive on to Indee Station after a car refuel and a small grocery restock. 

Indee station is about 70km inland from Port Hedland and is setup for travelers to pass through. After 5pm even out here there is a major influx of hivis shirts and work vehicles. Indee Station also has a very nice setup for large work groups up to 120 people but where we were was not quite so nice. Anyway it was fine for one night. 

Bianca lost her second tooth for the trip at Indee Station. The silly tooth fairy paid for the tooth but forgot to take it with her. 

Early Saturday morning we drove on to Karajini NP. Everything out here is so far from the next thing. We didn't arrive at Karijini until early afternoon. After a visit to the ranger station we knew the gorges that had plenty of water for swimming and which gorges had very little water. The girls were each given an activity book to complete to receive a Karijini Junior Ranger Badge. All they need is an incentive. It was most certainly Chantelle that completed the requisite number of activities first. 

We set the camper up a bit to make the lunch thing easier. We immediately noticed the fly problem. The flies were so bad we ate lunch in the camper and had the Morteen auto spray going inside and out. Sure Karijini is a National Park, and all animals and plants are protected but the flies were nasty. 

There were no showers at the campgrounds in Karijini. There were showers at the ranger station but only between 9:00am - 4:00pm. What they did provide were massive big baths mostly at the bottom of waterfalls. 

Before dinner we walked to Fortescue Falls and on to Fern Pool for a swim. Fortescue Falls was a bit difficult to get in and out of because of the slippery rocks. Fern Pool had a ladder and platform to assist with entry and exit from the pool. Fern was also set under some massive paper bark trees with reeds and ferns growing all around. We needed to watch the fish in Fern because they had a habit of nipping our legs. 

Did we mention the flies? Millions of them. We all wore fly nets (not veils or some other headdress), oh yes that is Fern Pool in the background. 

Fortescue Falls. The water was cooler than other gorges and very pleasant.  

The rock looked just like a lump of iron. This is what Rio Tinto is digging up. Seven trains of 200 wagons take 20,000,000kg each to Dampier a day. If you want to see the Pilbra get there quick before the Pilbra is all exported. 

After a breakfast of raspberry pancakes Sunday morning (we ate in the camper because the flies were still a bit persistent despite the Morteen) we drove 45km to Weano Recreation Area. Evidently this is where the miners from the nearby mines come on days off. Our plan was to walk a grade 5 trail through Hancock Gorge to Kermit's pool. It was quite the adventure!  

We walked down steps and ladders to the base of the gorge then along the gorge. Unlike many of the gorges we have seen this one is super narrow in places, so narrow that Bianca could easily touch both walls at once. We came to a long pool with steep walls on each side. The easiest way to proceed was to swim the length. The four ladies took a swim while Nicholas walked the walls with the food and other things opposed to getting wet. 

Heading down the ladders. 

Taking a swim down the natural lap pool. 

Further down the the gorge we clambered over boulders that had become lodged between the gorge walls with water running around or under the boulders. Then around a corner we came to Kermit's Pool. Hidden in deep narrow section of gorge, the sunlight would berely reach the water, the pool is long and deep. 

Kermit's Pool. 

Chantelle swimming in Kermit's Pool. 

There were heaps of people at the pool while we were there. A group of Europeans, a large group of miners, and several other people. It seemed that as someone headed back to the car park someone else took their place at the pool. Kermit's Pool is the end of the walk unless you have permission to continue usually as part of a guided tour. There is a pool further down called Reagan Pool after a SES volunteer from Tom Price whose body was recovered from the pool following a flash flood during a rescue of someone with an injured leg. 

Morning tea with Christmas Shapes at Kermit's Pool. Who is that man with the mo with our children? 

We had a fantastic swim with morning tea and another swim before heading back to the car park and back to the visitors centre. At the visitors centre the girls took the oath of Karijini Junior Rangers. They were so very excited. Two cloth badges each to be sown on the arms of a shirt.  

After lunch we walked to circular pool for another swim. When we got to the pool some muppet was dropping rocks into the pool from the top of the cliff. After they desisted we had our evening swim staying clear of where rocks could be thrown even though the perpetrator had decamped. 

Circular pool. 

Monday morning we packed up and drove toward Karatha and Dampier. Along the way we stopped at Mt Bruce, WAs second tallest mountain. There was a very short walk to a viewing area where we could see Marandoo mine operations in the distance. While we were watching and reading a long iron ore train went past with three engines of 4000 horse power each.

Marandoo mine operation where the ore is crushed, sorted and graded. 

Still further on we stopped at Hamersley gorge for walk and swim. The gorge was again one of the better swimming gorges we had swum in. We took a long swim down the narrow gorge and the water was a perfect vantage point to admire the patterns in the rock wall. Just spectacular. The water was deep and we probably swam 100m quite leisurely each way. 

Hamersley gorge there was quite a lot to the gorge and the water was still running. 

Looking up the gorge there was a series of waterfalls into small or medium sized holes. The girls found one quite good as a water slide!

Chantelle swimming down the waterfalls. 

Tuesday morning in Dampier we had a flat tyre on the trailer. After more than 25,000km our first flat tyre! Luckily Nicholas was able to change the tyre without needing to packup the camper. We dropped the tyre off for repair before exploring Karratha district. 

On the Burrup Peninsula was the North West Shelf project headquarters and visitor centre. The centre is closed now for low season but there was still heaps of information outside. From here they pipe gas down south to Carnarvon, Perth and Esperence. From the wells out at sea the gas is piped in submarine pipes 135km to shore. At the facility on shore the gases are separated and made liquid before being shipped to Korea, China and India or any other country that wants cheap energy. 

A section of the submarine pipe. 

Our next stop was Deep Gorge to see petroglyphs (stone carvings or etchings) that were so poorly sign posted, unless you knew they were there you would drive past totally oblivious. We were lucky to have some directions that enabled us to eventually find them. They estimate that there are up to 1,000,000 petroglyphs on the Burrup Peninsula and were produced from 25,000 to 30,000 years ago. The petroglyphs include a wide range of subjects including marine animals, mammals, birds and humans. These petroglyphs on the Burrup Peninsula represent the longest known sequence and greatest number anywhere in the world. 

At Roeburne we visited the Visitor Information Centre at the old gaol before going into the Museum in the gaol itself. The museum had a lot of information about the early days of the area when wool was king. Roeburne was named after one of William Dampier'a boats he explored the coast with in 1699. 

Wednesday morning as we were leaving Dampier  we stopped at the Red Dog memorial. There were some backpackers who had obviously slept the night in the car park. The real story behind Red Dog is not quite the same as the movie. The dog just wandered the area as far away as Roeburne and would make itself at home with whom ever he chose for a period. 

 The girls loving Red Dog. 

We found another farm stay with very good reviews and we had booked two nights. The drive to Emu Creek Station had not much to see along the way, more iron ore mines, a gas plant, more trains, signs pointing to work camps and mines.

We were welcomed at the station by Joyce and given direction to camp beside river. We chose a nice little spot quite flat with provision for camp fire. Chelsea was very excited about the campsite, she set and lit a fire to make tea for everyone. Angela was equally excited by the campfire and while we were there cooked bread, ANZAC biscuits, chocolate cake, and egg and bacon pie!

Camped on the banks of the river. 

Thursday morning we discovered another flat tyre on the car this time. With the second spare this one can wait for Carnarvon to be repaired. 

That's Scooter who adopted us at the station. He even let himself in to sleep in the girls room. 

The morning was passed by exploring Emu Creek Station. We were given directions to a swimming hole that we all had a splash in and morning tea beside. The stations must all have some beautiful places the the rest of us will never see. 

Chantelle in the water watched by her sisters. 

After lunch we wandered up to the homestead to check out the homemade produce for sale. Joyce will do bread, Devonshire Tea, relish, jams, eggs, and probably anything else you ask for. We made a selection of tomato relish and plum jam and ordered Devonshire Tea. Whilst the scones were prepared we went off to see the original station woolshed. 

The old timbers of the shearing shed. 

Back in 1891 when the station was called Wogoola the Camerons ran 20,000 merino sheep. All these sheep were shorn in the 12 stand shearing shed. The shearing shed is pretty much as they left it when the last sheep left the station. The wool classing table, pens, bale press, scales, machinery and slatted floor are all still in the shed. The bulk of the shed is used for storage nowadays. 

Back at the homestead and our Devonshire Tea was waiting for us. Unlike most Devonshire Teas where each person gets one or two scones we were given the whole batch of plain and date (farm grown) scones complete with freezer bag to take with us what we couldn't eat. 

Sitting up for Devonshire Tea. 

Friday morning we sadly left Emu Creek Station for Exmouth. We are also leaving the Pilbra region behind for the Gascoyne region. 

Broome WA

Tuesday

We arrived in Broome in time for lunch before we tackled our setup number 50 for this trip. The time taken to set up has been getting shorter, like super athletes that improve on previous best times through training and refinement. We all know how many poles, pegs, ropes and other bits and pieces are required for a setup. Mostly by the time the trailer is unhitched all the locks are open and tie downs removed ready to open the camper up. Rarely now do we make an error like not putting matting down before poles are set. We have also found several handy short cuts, like one rope on a corner instead of two, but this shortcut may get us up in the night. 

After basking in our own glory of Lth setup we visited the visitor centre to find the Broome highlights. This was left to Angela while Nicholas made enquiries on our roof bag that was not performing so well. Angela and the girls seemingly collected every brochure in the tourist center and when Nicholas rendezvoused with them a little later our time in Broome was mostly sorted and planned. They even managed to find time for Chelsea to be stung by a bee. Incredible. 

One must do when visiting Broome is to drive up to Cape Leveque. The Cape is the piece of land that juts out north of Broome and is west of Derby into the Indian Ocean. The tip of the cape is only about 200km north of Broome. 

Wednesday 

Broome could be the smallest town in Australia to have its own China town. Not much of one at that either. Just a couple of loosely Chinese themed shops amongst more contemporary shops. We saw the Sun Theatre, oldest operating outdoor cinema in the world. (You might have been there as a young girl Nina?) We checked the schedule but there were no kids movies on this week, Planes finished last week. 

Thursday was Chantelle's cooking day. She had planned a days menu from the Coles magazine, and shopped with Angela from a prepared shopping list for the required ingredients. It was pancakes for breakfast, 'pretty' sandwiches for lunch and starters, main and dessert for dinner. She did very well, everyone was catered for and no one went hungry. 

We spent Thursday morning at the Broome Library with backpackers who were abusing the free wifi (the backpackers could shower a bit more regularly). All the books are from the State Library of WA and are transferred from library to library. We are now temporary members at Broome but that membership should be good at any library. A system that is logical. 

In the afternoon, and to walk off the lunch by Chantelle, we took a stroll along Cable Beach. The name doesn't come from the cable like marks the water makes on the sand but from the cable that once entered into the water there and ended in Singapore for the telegraph. There you go. 

That is Cable Beach. Perfect for beach cricket. 

Friday

A doosy of a storm. 

Thunderbolt and lightning - very very frightening me
Gallileo, Gallileo,
Gallileo, Gallileo,
Gallileo Figaro - magnifico

The thunder woke Angela first, Nicholas followed. At first we thought it would be but a few spots of rain, nothing more. Before long Angela was pole wrestling against severe winds and drenching horizontal rain while Nicholas was wrestling canvas that had blown loose. The noise of the storm woke Chelsea who got up to close the main door but slipped on the wet floor and went down like a sack of potatoes. This woke Chantelle who got up to assist her sister and used every towel to stop others slipping on the floor. By the time it was all over we were all awake, Angela made 3 trips to the toilets, and everyone over 12yo were wet to the skin like they had come out of a bath. 

What Weatherzone recorded for the night all from 3am to about 3:30am. 

We finally all got back to sleep and for us slept late which wouldn't have been a problem had we not booked a pearl tour for first thing. We needed to leave before 8am to make the rough drive to Willie's Creek. En route Angela took a phone call telling her that we needed to take the alternate, and longer, route because of the rain. Once we left the made road we were driving on muddy sand and avoiding massive lakes on the road. 

Even with the sleep in and the treacherous roads we still managed to beat the tour bus to Willie's Creek so enjoyed a look at the pearls minus the hordes. When the tour bus arrived with another eleven people we were ushered to a shed where Megan explained, in intricate detail, how they produce cultured pearls. Before the cultured pearl process was invented the pearl divers found a pearl in at a rate of 1 pearl in every 1000 oysters. Now they get 4 pearls per oyster over 8 years. Most oysters have a crab that cohabitates with the oyster and the crab keeps a very tidy house so pearls don't occur naturally very often. The cultured pearl technicians are paid $80k for 3 months work on a boat, plus bonuses, to open up the oyster and implant a pearl seed inside the body of the oyster in a place that would make a grown man's eyes water!

A pearl resting on a live oyster. That's not where it grows, they grow them inside the oyster organ. 

After a demonstration on how the pearl is removed by three lovely assistants there was morning tea before a boat ride to look at how the pearls are grown and the oysters cared for. Thankfully we had a very calm day, but why would you offer food to tourists before taking them on a boat?

Now they know how to get the pearl out go find those oysters. 

Every couple of weeks boats with backpackers clean all the barnacles off the oyster shell to keep them healthy and happy. Happy oyster happy pearl apparently. Once the backpackers have cleaned oysters for 3 months they are given a certificate so they can work pearl farms anywhere in the world. Also, apparently there is high tech security around the pearl farm and in the water as every 10 oysters in a frame could contain pearls worth up to $100,000! Nicholas might take up scuba diving. 

Back in Broome we took the girls to Town Beach for a play in the water play area. Not quite Muddies Playground Cairns but enough to get Chantelle and Bianca wet while Chelsea read her book. 

The fairy car wash at Town Beach. 

Next to the playground was Broome Pioneer Cemetery. Nicholas walked across to have a look and unwittingly into a disagreement between two 'over refreshed' groups of locals being refereed by Broome's finest. Interestingly one grave was a policeman who was instrumental in quelling the race riots in December 1920. Other graves were those of captains and other notable townspeople and a few Japanese. The unrest was becoming worse so we moved on.

Bluey's Fish n chips had been highly recommended to us from various places, so we ordered and ate them, picnic style, on Cable Beach. That is how life should be, enjoying good food on the beach while watching the sunset over the Indian Ocean in fantastic company. 

Stop posing for a photo Angela or you will miss out on dinner. 

At the end of the day, we are all friends. 

Saturday morning Angela, Chelsea and Bianca visited Broome markets. Apparently this market has the best iced coffees going around. The one Angela bought and brought back for Nicholas was indeed pretty good. The Broome market satisfied Angela's market craving for now. The market had plenty of fresh produce, craft and other markets type stuff. 

In the afternoon we enjoyed an activity that we cannot do in Victoria. We took a drive along Cable Beach. Not along a road beside the beach but actually down on the sand between the dunes and water. At low tide there is several hundred meters of sand to drive on. Many locals obviously enjoy the beach also. There were dozens of 4wds on the beach, some fishing some having BBQ parties on the beach and then there was us pulled up for a swim. The water was so deliciously warm for a beach, easily the warmest sea water we have swum in.  We found all sorts of interesting things on the beach, crabs, sand balls from little crabs, and massive fishing floats. Chelsea ruined our time on the beach when she brought to everyone's attention the charcoal clouds blowing toward Broome. A quick check of the rain radar confirmed a storm heading for Broome. In no time at all we packed up, loaded up and were heading back to Broome in convoy with several others. 

The beast on the beach. 

The girls found Nicholas' ball and chain. 

That's how you build a sand castle. 

Back at camp we made preparations then waited and watched the heavens with other campers. Other than a few drops we got nothing. Keeping an eye on the radar the storm hit all around us and completely spared us this time. 

Sunday morning we packed the car to drive to Cape Leveque for a couple of nights. We had booked a cabin to stay in to save the fun of a pack and setup back in Broome for a few more days. Also the road up to the cape is very wet, slippery and narrow in places. Nicholas had arranged to leave the camper setup at Palm Grove at storage rates since the park was all but empty. But when he went in to say we were leaving the other receptionist was having no party to the arrangement. With a bit of robust discussion Nicholas brought her around. 

The second challenge of the day was to find something snacky for lunch, like a dip platter, or tasting plates. After searching and asking we ended up back near our caravan park at the Zoo Cafe, which has no zoo. One place Nicholas looked at had exactly what we were looking for on the menu, but when all the family were out of the car and seated we were told that they are only doing breakfast on Sundays during the wet season. 

The drive to the cape was about as wet and sandy a road could be without closing it all together. In places the road was reduced to a single lane by huge puddles (lakes) of water along the road. It just so happened that these sections mostly coincided with a car coming the other way. Before we had driven very far the car was covered is red muck from the road. 

After we checked in and checked out the room (which didn't take long) we wandered down to the beach. The beach was beautiful with fine white sand down to crystal blue water. The tide was well out and we could see some rocks and Chantelle skin dived with her pool goggles. 

Into the ocean at Kooljaman.

The resort is called Kooljaman and is one of those eco resorts. Build on land that is traditionally owned by two groups the resort is externally managed with the hope that the groups will wholly manage it in time. Nicholas thinks eco is the term used for something that is not finished or someone cannot be motivated to finish. Our cabin had two rooms, a bedroom and a bathroom. The kitchen was a plastic tub for washing and a BBQ for cooking. There was no air conditioning, nor glass in the windows. The windows had shutters that opened upwards with no insect screens. Insect protection came from nets over each bed. Now our view of the place might have been poisoned by the thought of eating inside (most days we have had three meals outside), having a plumbed kitchen, and perhaps some ac. Anyway it was what it was. 

Monday morning we drove a little way to Long Arm Point. This is one of the communities that own Kooljaman. In order to visit we need to register at the supermarket, pay $5/adult and wear an arm band. Of the communities we have visited and seen this is one of the better ones. There was little rubbish around the place and the houses looked well kept and maintained. 

At One Arm Point there is a Trocus hatchery, so we visited. Trocus is a shellfish in a conical shell and is prized in Asia for its shell and how the meat helps men perform. Indonesians come into Australian waters to take Trocus back to sell. One trip into Australian waters can yield two years wages worth of Trocus and sea cucumber. The hatchery breeds many different sea creatures for the aquarium industry in Australia. Clown fish are particularly popular. 

Angel fish at the hatchery. There was only one so breeding might be a bit slow. 

Round rock lookout offered a view over the straight where the ocean rushes through on tide changes. We saw the incoming tide rushing in like a river in high flood. We had never seen sea water flow with such ferocity. 

On the drive back to Kooljaman we stopped at Cygnet Bay Pearl farm. Seems that pearls are a side line business here as they also offered meals, accommodation and tours. In their pearl shop they displayed a 27.3mm perfect round pearl for just $27,000. We left it there for the next people to admire. 

Back at Kooljaman Nicholas lowered the tyre preasure so we could drive on the beach. We drove as far as we were allowed on the beach then stopped for an explore and swim. The shells on the beach were large and unique. We collected lots to sort for later. Because there was water Chantelle took a swim. 

The beast on the beach again. 

We found this crab claw on the beach. Thankfully the rest of the crab was not nearby. 

Tuesday morning on the drive back toward Broome we detoured off to Beagle bay to see the 'Sea Shell' church. On the way into the church we met Deacon Dan who instructed us to ignore the no entry sign and go right up to the altar and into the room off the altar. 

The shell decorated church. 

They had recently finished restoration works to stop rising damp. The restoration work required the removal of some of the plaster over the handmade bricks. In the bricks they found the names of some of the monks that made the bricks. As well as making the bricks by hand the monks crushed shells to make the mortar mix. 

Inlaid into the floors and furniture are hundreds of shells collected from the area to decorate the church. Beside the doors were giant clam shells for flower vases. The church was quite beautiful. 

The floor inlaid with aboriginal designs in shell. 

Back in Broome the tide was low enough to see dinosaur foot prints in the rocks. We drove out to the point to search. The footprints are not obvious but we think that we either found interesting shaped rock pools or dinosaur footprints. Because the footprints are important to aboriginal culture they cannot mark footprints for us tourists. 

What is it in the rock?

Wednesday morning we took the girls to the Broome museum. Each of the girls were given a set of questions and were to find the answers within the museum. There was quite a good section on the pearling past of the area. We were all horrified to learn that around the Broome area aboriginal people were bought and sold as slaves, mostly as divers on pearl luggers. 

The girls looking at the old diving suit with their certificates of completion from the museum. 

There was also an informative section on Broome and WWII. The story we all loved, as truly Australian was about 'Diamond' Jack Palmer. In short a cargo of diamonds went missing during the bombing of Broome in 1942. One of the Dutch DC planes, flown by Ivan Smirnoff, was shot down about 100 kilometres north of Broome. The diamonds were supposedly found by Broome resident Jack Palmer who spent them generously around Broome before handing over a package containing the remaining diamonds, worth about A$20million. Jack died in 1958 taking the secret of the diamonds with him, but rumours continue that Diamond Jack had buried the greater part of the fortune in the Broome region. A few years ago a house was being renovated. When the home owner returned no work had been done other than the partial demolition of the chimney, supposibly to retrieve more diamonds.  

After lunch we did the Broome walking tour. With a booklet and map from the museum we walked around the city of Broome to find out what some of the older buildings were used for in the past. It seems that the real money in Broome came from retail not finding pearls. Streeter was a name that kept coming up during the walk as building shops for this or that. He was also a pearl agent selling pearls to bidders from around the world. 

Thursday morning was packup day number 50 and farewell to Broome. It was also our first wet packup, it rained on and off most of the morning and even as we drove. On the way out of Broome we visited quickly the Japanese cemetery. Many of the headstones were made from local stone which gave the cemetery a very military look of symmetry. 

Gibb River Road

The car (or Beast as the girls have taken to calling it) was all fixed and ready Thursday afternoon. Friday morning we packed up and started the Gibb River Road adventure. Our last thing to do before leaving Kununurra was to go for a swim at the beach on the banks of the Ord. The water was so warm and there were heaps of people in there. A Home School support group of 30 students was meeting there as well as some local tradies with the day off. 

Now, up here the Gibb, as the locals call it, has a notorious reputation. Lee at Kimberley Land Caravan Park told us about all the cars and vans that broke down or fell apart on the Gibb this season. There was the Bushtracker caravan (Bushwacker as Angela called it) that was rescued twice from breakdown. Then there was the guy that waited 39 days for parts to arrive for his car! Even when Nicholas was collecting our car there was a Britz 4x4 with three flat tires that had been towed in from the Gibb. At least the beast only breaks on made road not dirt. We were more than a little worried as to what the Gibb might throw at us!

Friday we travelled over 400km to Mt Elizabeth Station (the Lacey's were not home, David and Jennie) without incident. The vistas along the Gibb were nothing less than spectacular. There were high hills with flat tops then sheer cliffs before the hill angled out at 45 degrees. In some places we could see where gorges existed between the hills, alas this end of the Gibb was now all closed so we could only admire from afar. 

The road surface has been much better than we were led to believe. The corrugations were much shallower and our speed was higher than anticipated. We certainly have been on much worse roads this trip. The road was very quiet  too. All day we saw three other cars, one grader and one roller, that was it, and all going the opposite direction to us. At every corner, flood way or culvert we held out breathe for the road quality to fall away. 

Mt Elizabeth Station is a good base to explore the middle section of the Gibb. The facilities are basic but functional and there is no power so the generator got another run. We sat out Friday night and watched the lightening in the distance while above us the stars twinkled. 

Saturday morning we again started early and headed for Manning Gorge. Manning is part of Mt Barnett Station and a pass is required from Mt Barnett Roadhouse. We arrived at the Roadhouse at 0830 but  it was closed until 1000. Rather than waiting around for the heat to get up we drove straight to the gorge. Had we waited we would have found out Manning gorge was closed also. There was no sign at the roadhouse other than 'no camping' and all the gates were open so blissfully unaware we bolled on in for a walk and swim. 

Just one of the pools at Manning Gorge. 

To start the walk we all needed to cross the river, usually there is a boat to pull people over in, but not today. Angela, Chelsea, Chantelle and Bianca chose to tackle the river head on while Nicholas took the camera and things that shouldn't get wet down stream to find a dry crossing. When we met up the girls couldn't refrain from telling Nicholas that Angela slipped and went under (which actually she didn't but why let the truth get in the way of a good story!).

Being wet from the crossing made the 4 ishkm walk a little easier. The swim at the other end made the walk well worth while. Even this early in the wet season there was water in each of the pools and they were all quite large. After cooling off in the first hole we ventured further up to explore other pools. The second pool certainly eclipsed the first. A massive pool easily 50m across extremely deep with high cliffs and a bit difficult to climb out once in. A piece of rock that jutted out made a perfect launch pad to jump about 3m into the water. There was no stopping Chantelle closely followed by Bianca then Chelsea and even Nicholas had a go. Then we found a lower launch pad that suited us all a bit better. What fun we all had! After 3 hours swimming, jumping and exploring we started the trek back to the crossing and car park. 

At the crossing Nicholas stayed on the bank to watch the crossing before crossing lower down again with the the water sensitive items. And what a crossing he had to behold. First Chelsea held the camel pack upside down above her head and bits started falling out of the pockets. Then Chantelle slipped and fell under with only her hat visible on the water. When Chantelle surfaced she had lost both water shoes! Bianca and Angela were both in amongst it helping retrieve bits and bring people and items back to the bank to regroup for a second attempt. Then Chelsea realised "I've lost my hat, where is my hat?". Cowboy hats like water shoes don't float. 

With the kids on the bank Nicholas and Angela were in the water looking for shoes and a hat in 3m of water. Angela spotted the hat and Nicholas dived down to retrieve it and found a water shoe close by. Saved one hat and one water shoe, lost one shoe. Chantelle is the only person we know that has lost a shoe in two instances in different rivers in different states of Australia. 

Further down the road we stopped at Galvin Gorge for lunch and a look. Galvin didn't look like much now but with a bit more water in it and the waterfall running it would be pretty spectacular. 

Boab tree flower. Smelt a bit like jasmine. 

Heading back to Mount Elizabeth we watched rain approach and dump on us and then move on. As we turned off the Gibb to the station the road was a bit wet and became wetter the further we got. Oh no, we had left flaps open for cooling and chairs out. When we got back we discovered that our lovely hosts had closed windows and put chairs under cover for us. We were very lucky as they had 26mm in 2 hours. Before we ate dinner another storm hit with wind, lightening and thunder. We retreated inside to eat out of the rain. 

Sunday morning and other than the tree debris there was little evidence of rain from the night before. All the canvas was dry for packing up. The rain did bring out the wildlife. Bianca befriended a pretty faced kangaroo that came right up to our campsite. Probably to see what we were doing in the rain last night. 

Bianca with the pretty face kangaroo that would allow only her to touch it. 

This little guy wanted to come with us. For a little thing it made LOTS of noise. 

On the drive out of the station we saw a lot of frilled neck lizards on the road, but strangely few cattle. 

A frilled neck lizard, the funniest things to see run. 

Our plan was to refuel at Imintji before going on to Windjana Gorge. The Imintji store closed at 1200 we arrived at 1225. Hema maps had wrong store hours. Imintji store was nice enough to turn the pumps back on for us. At $2.35/l who wouldn't want to sell all the fuel they could? That saved us driving 200km to Derby to refuel to see Windjana. 

Just passed Imintji the road crosses Bell Creek. The lady at Imintji store told us of a lovely hidden spot beside Bell Creek for lunch. Really was a lovely spot and had the potential for a rough camping spot also. 

After lunch we passed through spectacular Inglis Gap (special mention for you Scott, Sarah and the boys). The road twisted and turned between high coiffed mountains, presumably following a creek path through the range. 

We passed a rock formation that is called Queen Victoria's Head. It looked just like the bust of Queen Victoria from old coins. The closer we got to it the less it looked like the old queen. 

Queen Victoria's head. Long forehead and prominent nose. 

Just outside Windjana Gorge we drove past several large fires burning in the scrub. As night fell over our camp at Windjana, the sky was glowing red from the fires burning quite close by. A German tourist named Manfred was quite concerned and spoke to Nicholas about the fires. Nicholas drove to the ranger to see what was going on. The fire was quite close but the ranger assured Nicholas that there was 1000m of stone fire break on top of the gorge and we were all very safe where we were. The ranger was living on the park and was making no obvious plans to evacuate himself. Nicholas reported back to family and Manfred. As Manfred was camping alone we invited him over. Manfred had brought his own car from Germany and is travelling the world in it. He has been travelling for six years and is doing well at 72 years old. He recently shipped his car from South Africa to Perth to explore Australia for the next 12 months. 

By morning the fire had burned itself out and there was not even smoke in the air. We were all up very early in the morning to explore Windjana Gorge before the heat started. We left camp by 6am for our explore of the gorge. The path into the gorge took us through trees so that most of the gorge was hidden from view by foliage. There were huge numbers of bats in the trees roosting after a night of feeding. We also came across a short-eared rock wallaby which was a great treat to see such a rare animal. 

Short-eared rock wallaby. 

The other animal that is in the gorge in abundance is freshwater crocodiles. The gorge must be 80m wide in places however the water has dried up to only a few small pools. Those pools that are left are over populated with freshwater crocodiles. Bianca did a rough head (eye or nostril) count and quickly counted over fifty in just one pool. There could easily be that number again that cannot be seen! Little wonder there are warnings not to enter the water here. 

How many crocodiles can you count in this picture? One two three four five or six or more?

Windjana gorge in the early morning. 

After a beautiful walk we were back at camp for breakfast and then to packup our camp to drive to Derby via Tunnel Creek. On the way to Tunnel Creek we stopped at Lillimilura Police Post ruins. This area, Windjana, Lillimilura and Tunnel Creek, are the central to the Jandamarra story. Jandamarra as a young aboriginal boy became a skilled stockman and was later employed as a tracker at Lillimilura Police Post. At Lillimilura he struggled with his loyalties to his policeman partner and his tribal elders. While some of his tribe were in gaol at Lillimilura Jandamarra shot and killed his partner and freed his tribe members. This started a three year guerrilla war against police and European settlers. His hit and run tactics and his vanishing tricks became almost mythical. In one incident a police patrol followed him to his hideout at Tunnel Creek, but Jandamarra disappeared mysteriously. It was many years later that it was discovered that Tunnel Creek has a collapsed section that allows entry and egress from the top of the Range.

Lillimilura police post. 

At Tunnel Creek we walked through the tunnel and in places we had to walk through water up to half a meter deep. This was fine for most of the tunnel but the last section we saw dozens of red eyes in the beams of our torches. Each pair belonged to a freshwater crocodile. Because the water was quite deep we decided that it was not worth the risk walking through the water with potentially very hungry little crocs in the dark. The tunnel was created by a creek flowing through the soft limestone and creating a massive tunnel through the range. Angela had a huge fright during the walk when a massive Blue Tounge Lizard crawled over her foot in the dark! Later while Nicholas, Chelsea, Chantelle and Bianca were again looking for the lizard Angela found it by almost standing on it again. Maybe the Blue Tounge was trying to give Angela a heart attack!

Entering the tunnel, bit of a squeeze. 

Angela's scaly little friend. 

In the middle of the tunnel where the roof had fallen in. 

After a 2km walk through Tunnel Creek through water, over rocks and sandbars and crocodiles hissing at us we emerged back into the day light. After the cool of Tunnel Creek the midday heat was oppressive to say the least. Instead of eating at the picnic tables in the blazing sun we chose to eat and drive in the car on the way to Derby. 

We have seen all there is to see in Derby. Derby's claim to fame is the highest tides in Australia. These massive tide changes churn up the mudflats making the sea a coffee brown colour. We walked the jetty, visited the centennial mosaic in the centenary  pavilion, viewed the old gaol (which makes the Old Melbourne Gaol look like the Grand Hyatt in comparison). At the jetty we met Michael Gugeri, a long time Derby local, whose father made the first vehicle crossing of the Tanimi from Halls Creek to Alice Springs and back and Michael carted the fuel for the building of the Gibb River Road. Michael has also written a book of stories of the area mostly about his father's life. 

Old Derby Gaol. Note the shower. 

On the way to Broome we stopped at the boab prison tree where prisoners were locked up and rested before being marched into Derby. The interesting thing is both prisoners and witnesses were treated the same way. Both were put in neck irons then each prisoner was connected neck to neck in a long conga line. At night in the old Derby Gaol each prisoner's neck iron was handcuffed to an iron loop in the floor. No mention of these prisoners being anything other than aboriginal. 

Iron loop on the floor where prisoners were locked to. There were only 6-8 loops in each cell but the prison might hold 60 prisoners. 

The prison tree, possibly 1500 years old. 

Also near the prison tree is the original stock quarantine station. All stock destined for the live export trade out of Derby were held here and checked. Going by the size of the water trough there must have been huge numbers of stock held at times. 

Myalls Bore and Cattle Trough 120m long. 

During WWII there was a large base at Myalls Bore. Because of the large amount of water a member lobbied for a bathing pool. After it was constructed it was named Frosty Pool after Charles Frost. Years later the pool was closed because of hook worm, yuck. Maybe swimmers should have been quarantined first with the cattle. 

Frosty Pool constructed by the 3rd General Transport Co in 1944. 

By early afternoon we were in Broome to setup camp for the 50th time. That is about 1000 pegs that have been hammered in, sometimes into concrete it seems and 450 tent poles set vertical.